When we think of gemstones, we often think of the traditional cut: round, oval, square or rectangular. But there is so much more! Let's dive into the world of fancy cut gemstones.
Written by Damian Miles, expert Gemstones
Fancy cuts?
What is a “fancy cut” gemstone? To be classed as a fancy cut, the cutting of a gemstone needs to break from the traditional. Traditional cuts of gemstone are simple shapes such as round, oval, square or rectangular. They can either be cut in the brilliant cut style, where the facets form triangular shapes, Step cut style, where the facets are more towards rectangular or any combination of the two as a mixed cut.
Fancy cuts, that’s where the fun starts! A fancy cut can be pretty much any cut you can imagine outside of the traditional shapes. Drop shapes, triangles, marquise or navette and hearts are the more commonly seen. Then there are shapes such as bullets, horseheads, stars and Trapezoids (which are great as pairs). But there is more.
How are the gemstones cut?
It all starts with a rough crystal, and a plan on how it's going to be cut. With some rare gemstones, the shape of the rough crystal determines the eventual shape of the finished piece, because the cutter will try to yield the gains from a piece of rough in order to minimise loss of weight. Especially with rare stones: weight is money. After that, the preshaping begins. This means the basic shape of the cut is produced "freehand" by the cutter using a spinning wheel primed with diamond powder. This is a tricky task! The preshaped stone is then "dopped", which means that it's placed on a dopping stick with the help of a special gem cutting wax.
Source: www.irocks.com
Then the process, called faceting, begins: the rough crystal is cut into a scintillating finished gemstone. Hundreds of tiny facets are placed on the table and pavillion of the preshaped rough crystal. The lap previously used is replaced with a faceting lap primed with very fine diamond powder. Using the hand held faceter, the cutter uses the Height, Angle, Index triangle to place each individual facet seperately on the crown and pavilion. The crown and pavilion are cut to form a lens and reflector, to gather and focus the light to create a reflection. Finally, the stone is polished and something of great beauty is created! Even with traditional shapes and cuts, the cutting of gemstones is an incredibly difficult task that requires incredible skills, talent and experience from the cutter. When they decide to go for a creative route, it is even more impressive.
Catching the eye
Some gemstones defy the traditions of lapidary and dictate what they will be, working around particular inclusions within a gem, or featuring them. True fancy cuts demand the attention of anyone who’s eye they catch with their individual cutting style. Concave facets and carving are used on some stones to play with the light on its journey through the gem. Some lapidary artists, and that’s what they are, produce works of pure fantasy and creativity. These pieces are generally one of a kind, never to be repeated.
Stealing the spotlight
If you love jewellery and want a piece that really stands out, a fancy cut is way great way to go. Their unusual shapes mean that a piece of jewellery needs to be made around them, creating a truly unique piece. What better way to express your love than with a heart shape? How about using a pear or drop shape gem for a pendant? Or, like me, you could simply fall in love with the huge varieties of gemstones available and start a collection with as great a variation of gem species and shapes as you can find. For something individual and special, fancy cuts are the way to go. Of course, you can choose to follow, but this is trend setting we’re talking about, so naturally, you lead.
Most gemstone varieties are available in fancy cut styles if you know where to find them, and where better to look than in our weekly fancy cut auctions. Here you will see a range of gemstones from familiar gems such as rubies, sapphires and emeralds, to the more unusual tsavorite garnets, spinels and tourmalines as well as some very unusual gemstones that appear from time to time.