Written by Tom Flanagan | 6 September 2024
When Beetlejuice was released in 1988, few could have predicted the impact it would have. The film largely centres on the ghosts of a loving couple (played by Alec Baldwin and Geena Davis) who try to reclaim their Connecticut home from the family that moves in after their death – including a sculptor played by a deliciously camp Catherine O’Hara – with the help of a bio-exorcist named Beetlejuice.
Initially, the plot didn’t read as much more than a light-hearted Halloween flick. But the film was a hit – partly because as with anything Tim Burton-related, it had layers.
Pallid faces and long-sleeved blouses
From the costuming to the design, Beetlejuice celebrated goth style in a way that few mainstream films did, adding comedy to its dark, maudlin appeal. Gone were the blown-out haircuts and pops of neon so central to 80s aesthetics – here it was all pallid faces, vintage long-sleeved blouses and, of course, black and white stripes. As a piece of cinema, it helped cement Burton as a pioneer of gothic style and established a signature aesthetic that would inspire other styles. “Beetlejuice paved the way for early 1990s trends such as grunge,” says Catawiki’s Senior fashion expert Fleur Feijen. “If we look at collections by Marc Jacobs and Vivienne Westwood from that era, it’s easy to see the parallels.”
In 2024, the release of the sequel Beetlejuice Beetlejuice only looks to continue that. Back are much of the original cast – Keaton as the titular character and Winona Ryder as Lydia Deetz – while Jenna Ortega of Wednesday-fame serves as the newcomer. And all of them sport 21st-century elevations of their original gothic garb in costumes designed by Colleen Atwood (the woman behind Wednesday’s costumes).
Welcoming nostalgia
Here, Ryder’s spiked, punk hair plays off the sharp angles of her black-squared jacket and angular white collar. Elsewhere, Ortega drifts from a plaid school uniform to a floor-length silvery prairie-esque gown complete with high shoulders. But Beetlejuice’s trademark look is arguably the eponymous character’s black and white suit, which returns in monochrome glory – the horizontal stripes of the arms a clever tailoring contrast to the vertical stripes that add length and fit to the suit.
For fans of Beetlejuice, the sequel is a welcome nostalgia. But its release comes at a time when there’s renewed interest in dark aesthetics. This year, Pinterest dubbed ‘Western Gothic’ as a major trend for 2024. Depop coined ‘Sleaze Academia’ (a subtle nod to the Dark Academia digital trend that favours rainy academic institutions, books and high-literary types) a trend to watch out for. Online communities have been growing too – the r/GothStyle Reddit sub-thread has grown to nearly 200K members since 2022, a year that saw it grow by 155%. And on Catawiki, searches for memento mori have risen by 44 percent since 2023.
Gothic Retro whimsy
Samantha Schreyer, a long-time devotee of the film who started a TikTok channel (with +130K followers) centred on vintage fashion and fandoms inspired by Beetlejuice, says even now, its aesthetic is distinctive.
“There's a lot of appeal to Beetlejuice; it’s childhood nostalgia, Tim Burton's directing and art direction, plus the style and aesthetic,” says Schreyer. “I would describe it as Gothic Retro whimsy. It's very kitsch and a bit tacky, but self-aware in a way that works. You'll see a lot of stripes, as well as spiderweb ponchos (a throwback to the beloved '80s cartoon). There also seems to be a demand for red dresses inspired by Lydia's wedding dress and big hair. Beetlejuice is also surprisingly popular with vintage-inspired brands, who produce sweaters and poodle-style skirts.”
Gen Z-driven revival
It’s this mix of retro, kitsch, vintage and gothic flair that has been seeing a revival, both on the runway and beyond. This year, Lebanese designer Elie Saab debuted his Gothic Garden Renaissance – all centred around gothic black – where floor-length gowns, lace coverings and frills combined to dramatic effect. Beyond that, Thom Browne's sculptural and Edgar Allan Poe-inspired collection paid homage to all things American Gothic. Part of this renewed interest can be put down to the cultural moment but it’s also indicative of Gen Z and Alpha’s changing tastes and the role aesthetic plays in their lives.
“I think the Gothic appeal to Gen Z and Gen Alpha was massively renewed when Wednesday came out on Netflix,” says Rochelle White, who heads up a PR agency focused on youth culture and trends. “It represents a way for them to express themselves, be creative with their styles and even be authentic. Gothic subculture is known for being dark, mysterious and a little rebellious. Younger generations are drawn to this because they’re able to stand out and say something without saying something.”
While Wednesday is the obvious example leading the charge for the Burtonesque aesthetic, there are examples everywhere. From the Americana appeal of singer Ethel Cain to a Drag Race US episode dubbed ‘See You Next Wednesday,’ where contestants had to create their own goth girl looks, the brooding, shadowy style is pervasive – and even in people’s homes.
Gothic interiors and Victorian-style furniture
“Beetlejuice has played a significant role in bringing the gothic aesthetic back into the spotlight thanks to the original film focusing heavily on interior design,” explains interior designer Molly Woodward-Moor. “It features whimsical set designs, rich textures and a dark colour palette that have become iconic representations of the gothic style in popular culture…think eclectic lighting fixtures to Victorian-style furniture with a twist, ornate pieces made from dark wood with velvet or patterned upholstery.” The “gothic interior” is something often obscured by the fashion in Beetlejuice.
But the film’s American Gothic-style home, teak wooden furniture and sculptural decor were a nod to a kind of melodrama less seen in the era of its debut. Now, people are embracing dark, opulent interiors in favour of the clean, Scandinavian styles that have dominated much of the 2010s and 2020s so far. That said, there’s always been an interest in darker interior styles, says stylist Vicky Floros of Vicky Floros Styling – the difference is now people believe it to be achievable.
[Also read: How to Style Your Home in Gothic Drama]
Dark and moody Pinterest boards
“There has always been a market for dark interiors but recently people feel more confident in experimenting with it thanks to visual online spaces like Pinterest which are exposing a wider audience to the inside of people's homes,” she explains. “It’s a way of giving a real-life visual of how such a space would feel and look – suddenly it doesn’t seem so mysterious. Darker rooms also immediately feel cosy and in a world with so much noise, warm and safe retreats are in high demand.”
The release of Beetlejuice 2 is likely to embed gothic style into the cultural conscience even further. But for fans like Schreyer, the only real hope (at least upon seeing the trailer) is a continuation of the things that made her fall in love with the film in the first place.
“Style-wise, it's nice to see them bringing back Lydia's signature look [the all-black, goth-punk] though matured. The film has definitely taken a modern-infused costume direction, but it looks timeless and the retro visuals are a treat, too,” she says. “I’ll always have a serious soft spot for the franchise.”
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