Written by Tom Flanagan | 2 October 2024
Everyone’s heard of Rolex and Omega – and for good reason. But there are just as many other worthy watch brands that fly under the radar, with long traditions of innovation and a commitment to craftsmanship spanning centuries. From the home of watchmaking in Switzerland to emerging designs in Spain, we’ve picked out 5 of the lesser-known but trending watch brands on Catawiki that are worth getting acquainted with.
1. Dubois et Fils
The home of Switzerland’s oldest watch factory, Dubois et Fils has an enduring legacy regarding luxury timepieces as the country’s longest-serving watch manufacturer without interruption. Founded in 1761, the Dubois et Fils is one of the brands that contributed to making Swiss watches the gold standard worldwide through its commitment to design, craftsmanship, and durability. They’re not a small name necessarily but compared to the likes of Rolex, they’re often less talked about. Having first begun producing pocket watches, Dubois et Fils has since evolved into making limited edition watches, of which they only produce 99 per model. Using historical Swiss ticking movements and a simple, minimal design, Dubois et Fils is a pick for anyone who wants understated luxury with tradition.
2. Eberhard & Co.
With a 130-year-old watchmaking history, Eberhard & Co. is another Swiss brand with a long watchmaking tradition that remains underrated. Created by Georges Eberhard in 1897, its foray into pocket watches rapidly grew into all manner of timepieces, which now focuses on luxury king-size wristwatches. But their vintage watches, known as pre-Extra Fort, still have a large pull for collectors, namely those predating the 1950 models. The dial size (around 39-40mm) which made them easy to read, and the design, including its typography, still set Eberhard apart. Elsewhere, the brand’s diving watches from the 50s and 60s – known for their large triangular arrows on the watch face – are sought after by collectors. Their vintage appeal and type make them a great accessory for those with their style rooted in the past.
3. Eterna (Matic)
Another Swiss watchmaker to make the cut, Eterna, has been producing timepieces since 1867. While they’re hardly an obscure brand, they’re deserving of more attention considering their long history with innovation. Eterna produced the smallest production wristwatch that had a baguette movement (used to describe long and thin movements made by the ticker) back in 1930 and was at the forefront of self-winding watches, also known as an automatic watch, in 1938. The Eterna-Matic was one of these watches and remains one of, if not, the brand’s greatest successes, attracting a legion of fans and celebrity admirers, including Brigette Bardot. It was defined by the ball-bearing mechanism – five balls to help with the movement mechanism of the watch – which ultimately became Eterna’s logo (these same five bearing weights shaped into a star). The company is now Hong Kong-owned but active in wristwatch design while the EternaMatic remains one of the 20th century’s most iconic and collectable timepieces.
4. Tempore Lux
Spain isn’t well-known for its watchmaking and Mallorca has more of a reputation for losing track of time than keeping it. But Tempore Lux, a Balearic watch brand that calls the island home is changing that. Founded by David Ramirez in 2017, Tempore Lux is a culmination of his passion for timepieces and in his own words, “obsession for vintage watches”. The past has an influence on all the watches produced; take the Racing One Chronograph watch, inspired by the motoring world of the 1960s. Because Tempore Lux is a micro brand, it only produces a handful of watches a year, but its small size belies its quality and craftsmanship. Modelled after the likes of Omega, Rolex and Seiko, the Tempore Lux watches are a great choice for anyone after the bigger names on a smaller budget, plus the knowledge that you’re supporting an enterprise dreamt up and established by a man who above all, simply loved collecting.
5. Optima Swiss
100 years later and Optima Swiss are still crafting exceptional timepieces. A Swiss brand renowned for its eye for detail, these watches are an example that all that glitters actually is gold. From precious metals and stones and even pearls, Optima Swiss watches excel in the finer things. Whether that’s a gold-ringed dress watch paired with a forest green watch face, or a classic stainless steel studded with precious gems, these are for the collectors looking to make a statement. It’s a far cry from the brand’s humble beginnings in Bienne – widely considered to be the global capital of watchmaking – where high-quality watches were primarily produced for the US Army stationed there. Nowadays though, the only battle is which watch to choose from. They make both Men’s (both automatic and quartz) and Women’s watches, with highlights including the Ortilla Skeleton collection for men, and the green-backed OSL458 or the compact, gold OSL454 for women.
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