Written by Tom Flanagan | 1 November 2024
When the court of the Duke of Clarence gathered for a celebratory feast in 1454, few of the guests could have predicted what would happen next. In the grand banquet hall, the table was set, and at its centre was an extravagant pie. As culinary folklore goes, when the pie was cut open, a cloud of live blackbirds burst forth, creating a visual spectacle for the seated audience.
While medieval texts vary on the exact date and occasion, this is an early example of the “surprise pie,” a favourite decorative party trick of European royalty that became popular during the 16th and 17th centuries. The surprise pie was often a non-edible, ornamental centrepiece that concealed anything from live animals to troubadours. In one memorable instance, a dwarf named Jeffrey Hudson—who would later become known as the court dwarf—emerged from a pie at a feast for King Charles I.
Though the surprise pie was a novelty meant to impress guests, it reflected the pageantry and entertainment that were integral to the Christmas table, showcasing how much traditions and decorations have changed. The pomp and ceremony of historical Christmases have given way to a modern table that values restraint over revelation.
“The Christmas table has evolved from a primarily aristocratic celebration, meant for public festivities, to a popular family feast found in almost every Western household,” says Robin Goyeux, Catawiki’s expert in Cooking & Dining. “Nowadays, the Christmas table is simpler but remains a festive setting. Certain elements, like elaborate centrepieces, have largely disappeared. These could be large silver or porcelain baskets containing arrangements of flowers, fruits, or decorations placed in the middle of the table.”
Vincenzo Campi, Kitchen, 1580, oil on canvas, Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan
Puzzle jugs and grape scissors
If Christmas feasting in the past was as much about entertainment as it was about eating, then the choice of cutlery reflected this. Victorian-era England embraced whimsy at the dining table, which is why items like the “puzzle jug” or trick dish were created. These ceramic pieces featured hidden compartments or trick openings, challenging diners to figure out how to drink from them without spilling. Such pieces brought a sense of fun and playfulness to formal Christmas dinners.
While these items are less common today, some dining ware has persisted. For example, specialised cutlery like serving spoons (there was a specific spoon for everything, including strawberries), sugar tongs, and fish forks (used to separate flesh from bones) are still in use. There were also more luxurious items like swan-shaped sauceboats, silver cheese platters, and beautifully decorated grape scissors.
Though Victorian dining habits may seem excessive now, Goyeux explains that the evolution of food culture has allowed some of these pieces to endure. “Since the 19th century, the number of dishes in a meal has multiplied, so cutlery has been adapted to each type of dish,” he says. “It has also become less complex. Back then, the sheer amount of cutlery and serving utensils—used in a precise order—could easily overwhelm anyone unfamiliar with bourgeois rituals.”
The Christmas table today
The modern Christmas table is much more accessible, though still a grand affair. “We’ve shifted from ‘service à la française,’ where dishes were all served at once like a buffet, to ‘service à la russe,’ where dishes are served in succession,” Goyeux explains.
For a contemporary feel, Goyeux recommends styling your table to reflect your home’s seasonal décor. Fortunately, many brands have capitalised on the demand for festive tableware, making it easier to curate the essential pieces. “To start, choose a beautifully crafted dinner service,” Goyeux suggests. “Whether it’s a modern, colourful service from Hermès, an old porcelain set from Bernardaud in Limoges, or a classic Pont-aux-choux service in Gien earthenware, the key is to mix old and new."
“Add in Christofle cutlery and mix the old and the new with an Art Deco 'América' service designed in 1933 by Luc Lanel, the classic and elegant 'Villeroy' model in Louis XIV style, or the precious Talisman model decorated with coloured Chinese lacquer. Accessorise with an Art Deco bread basket with Macassar ebony handles and an elegant ‘Cardinal’ vase designed by Lino Sabattini, also from Christofle. Finally, a pair of candelabras always looks great on the Christmas table to illuminate the spread and inject some warmth.”
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Tradition with a modern twist
Blending classic and contemporary elements is a key part of styling your Christmas table. Alongside timeless dining ware, consider incorporating a few touches inspired by royal traditions. Think ironed linen tablecloths, cloth napkins, and multiple glasses—one for water, one for wine (placed to the right of the water)—as well as coasters, knife holders, and trivets for added decoration.
You could also include bread plates with butter knives and, of course, a centrepiece—fresh flowers or seasonal greenery like holly or branches add natural texture. If you want to go all out, consider place cards for each guest and charger plates, which add personality and create a cohesive aesthetic. It’s a small detail, but traditional etiquette dictates that there should be salt and pepper shakers for every 2-4 people—and they should always be passed together.
Make it special
For Goyeux, the key is balancing extra effort with a focus on what truly matters. “Today’s Christmas table is much more about family gathering around a good meal than about demonstrating prestige,” he says. “The celebration of Christmas has become more inclusive, and customs have been simplified, but the festive spirit, decorations, and special tableware we only use a few times a year still have their place.”
Adding silverware from brands like Christofle or a Danish Christmas plate can subtly elevate the occasion. These pieces don’t need to be ostentatious—something like a Sully champagne bucket or a vintage vase by Lino Sabattini can create a sculptural effect. Even the cutlery itself, like a Villeroy set that nods to historical styles, can bring a touch of elegance. The goal for any table is to revel in a sense of luxury, whether big or small, and create something that feels special.
That’s Goyeux’s philosophy, too. “Personally, I find that the Christmas table is an opportunity to put on a show by bringing out the most beautiful pieces in abundance,” he says. “Glassware for each drink, crystal carafes, serving dishes, gravy boats, salt shakers, bread baskets—at Christmas, everything goes.”
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