Written by Anouk Vleugels | 6 November 2024
Has your love of luxury watches sparked an interest in making a long-term investment? We asked Watch Expert Berry Harleman to share his insights on investing in watches and to explain his affinity for these classic timepieces.
Are luxury watches a good investment?
“They can be — but like any investment, there’s no guarantee that the price you sell it for will be higher than what you paid. In that sense, it’s a bit like the stock market; sometimes you have to wait it out. So, if you’re only in it for financial gain, watches might not be the best choice for you. But if you, like me, are a collector first and an investor second, there are some factors to consider when buying an investment watch.”
What factors should collectors look for?
“Scarcity is the most important. The watches that prove to be the best investments are often models of which relatively few were made. A great example is the Rolex Daytona. It flopped when it was introduced in the 1960s, so not many of the first editions were produced. But as we know now, it was simply ahead of its time. By the ‘80s and ‘90s, the Daytona had become massively popular—and today, it’s one of the most desirable models in the world.”
Rolex Daytona, 2007
Are there other criteria to consider?
“Media attention and hype can also increase demand, which can drive up prices. A good example of this happened in 2019, during the 50th anniversary of the Gérald Genta brand, founded by the legendary watchmaker. Many media outlets covered the anniversary and Genta’s legacy, generating more attention for his work. This increased the value of some of the iconic models he designed.”
Are there specific brands to look out for?
“Keep an eye on the brand Universal Genève. This Swiss watch brand was highly exclusive between the 1930s and 1970s but has been mostly defunct since the 1990s. Earlier this year, Breitling announced they had acquired Universal Genève and would restart the brand. Their new collection will come with a hefty price tag, which will likely also increase the value of vintage Universal Genève watches.”
Universal Genève, 1950s
How long should buyers wait before expecting a return on their investment?
“A watch is typically considered an investment if it’s sold for a profit after ten years. If the profit margin is significant, you could sell a watch in a shorter period, but that’s not investing—that’s trading.”
Why do you invest in watches?
“I invest in watches because I love them. They’re exciting to collect. Sometimes there’s a great story behind a particular watch; other times, it’s the thrill of finally finding and purchasing the model you’ve been hunting for—that’s what it’s all about for me.”
Explore our Exclusive Watches Collection now